How to Cycle a Fish Tank with Fish? Safely & Quickly

What does “cycling your fish tank” mean? And how do I go about doing the process? When you first hear about cycling a fish tank, these might be the questions that come to mind, “How do I cycle a fish tank?” This procedure aids in dissolving poisonous nitrogen waste into less dangerous constituents in an aquarium and promotes the health of your fish.

You must thus be confused because you are here, but don’t worry! You’re in the perfect place because I’ll walk you through the entire process, step by step. You’ll be able to comprehend it more clearly due to this breakdown and manage the process independently.

What does your Fish Tank Cycle Mean?

The nitrogen cycle is what we mean when we say that your fish tank has to be cycled. This is a natural mechanism that assists in converting hazardous waste into something less dangerous for your fish. You’ll need to assist in establishing this cycle in their new aquarium if you’re building up a fish tank for your new finned companions.

Due to the cycle, the tank’s beneficial bacteria can flourish and be a biological filter for any waste your fish may produce. Their feces and poop contain significant concentrations of lethal ammonia. An adequately cycled tank will be transformed into nitrites and, eventually, non-toxic nitrates.

How to Cycle a Fish Tank?

Set up the Filtration System and Tank

Before you proceed, your aquarium should be entirely constructed and filled, except for the fish. For additional information, see our articles on setting up freshwater and saltwater aquariums. The following is a quick checklist of things you should accomplish before beginning; remember that not all aquariums will exactly fit these items.

• Put the aquarium together.
• Add substance
• Adding water
• Including air pumps, air stones, etc.
• Add plants, rocks, etc.
• Include filtration (and/or a protein skimmer)
• Insert heater

A Few Hardy Fish must be added to the Aquarium

To complete the cycle process, you need to fill the tank with fish that can produce waste and endure the initial high levels of toxins. Long enough for the helpful bacteria that process waste to developing. As a result, you should choose a type with a reputation for producing healthy cycling fish and begin with a limited quantity. After the bacteria have multiplied, you can gradually add more fish of various species. Here are a few suggestions for cycling fish.

• White Clouds
• Zebra Danios
• Tiger or Cherry Barbs
• Pseudotrophius Zebra
• Banded Gouramis
• Tetras of X-ray
• Pupfish
• The majority of minnows
• The majority of guppies

Feed Fish in Moderation

It’s crucial to avoid overfeeding your fish when cycling in an aquarium. A decent general rule of thumb is to feed fish every other day, even though individual species may have varied dietary requirements. You should only serve a moderate-sized supper; you don’t want the fish to have any leftovers. Two reasons are given for doing so:

• Fish that consume more food generate more waste, which might raise the toxin levels in the aquarium before the bacteria have a chance to establish themselves.
• Food that has been left over will ultimately decay and release toxins by itself.

Change the Water Frequently

Replace roughly 10 to 25 percent of the tank’s water every few days as you wait for the tank to cycle. This is another technique to prevent toxin levels from rising too much before the bacteria have a chance to develop, similar to the shortened feeding schedule previously mentioned. In order to maintain the right salinity in a saltwater tank, don’t forget to add a reasonable amount of marine salt each time you change the water.

Use only Non-Chlorinated Water to avoid killing the Microorganisms in the Tank and Restarting the Cycle

Before introducing tap water to your aquarium, treat it with the proper Dechlorinator or water conditioner. If you use bottled water, be sure to purchase distilled water. Because “purified” or “drinking” water may have minerals added for the taste that could be detrimental to fish.

• If your fish exhibits symptoms of severe ammonia stress, be prepared to do water changes considerably more regularly. However, avoid subjecting the fish to significant changes in the water’s chemistry or temperature to prevent stressing them out.

Check the Levels of Toxins using Test Kits

As soon as you add back fish to your aquarium, the poisonous chemicals, ammonia, and nitrite levels will immediately increase as the fish emit waste into the water. The stories of these chemicals will progressively decrease to almost nil. At that point, it is okay to add more fish as good bacteria start to thrive in reaction to these poisons. Commercially available test kits can be used to monitor these pollutants, typically offered where fish and aquariums are. Although testing every day is preferred, you can occasionally get away with testing every few days.

Throughout the Cycling Phase, you Should Maintain Nitrite and Ammonia Concentrations below 1 mg/L and 0.5 mg/L, Respectively

They ought to be at most 50% of these values. The frequency of your water changes should be increased if certain substances begin to reach hazardous levels. The cycling process is finished when the amounts of ammonia and nitrite fall undetectable. Though technically incorrect, this is sometimes called “zero” for practical purposes. You might also bring water samples to the pet shop where you purchased your fish or aquarium. Most will provide affordable test services.

Once the Toxic Levels are almost zero, Gradually add more Fish

Usually, the cycle process lasts six to eight weeks. You can add extra fish after the stories of ammonia and nitrite is so low that they aren’t detected by your tests. However, you should proceed cautiously, introducing no more than one or two new fish at once. Adding a small group of fish at a time retains the bacteria’s ability to control the tank’s rising ammonia and nitrite levels caused by each new addition.

Wait at least a week before testing the water again after adding fresh fish. You could add your subsequent batch of fish if the ammonia and nitrite levels are still low.

How to Cycle Fish Tank Quickly?

Add Mature Tank Filter Media

Aquarium owners have long searched for ways to speed up this process because cycling a tank may take up to six or eight weeks. Introducing bacteria from a previously cycled tank to the new tank is one effective method for accomplishing this. Your tank should cycle more quickly as a result of not having to wait for the bacteria to begin organically multiplying. A tank’s filter is a fantastic source of bacteria; for a possible boost, simply move the filter media from the existing tank to the new tank.

Utilize the Filter Medium from a Tank with a Similar Size and Population of Fish

Mismatching your filters might result in higher ammonia loads than the bacteria can immediately digest. Such as when utilizing a filter from a tank with a small number of fish to cycle a tank with more fish.

Include Gravel from an Established Tank

The substrate of a conventional tank, the gravelly substance at the bottom, can have the same effect as filter media in terms of allowing you to “transfer” bacteria from the existing tank to the new one. To achieve the desired amount of substrate, just sprinkle a few scoops on top of the tank’s current substrate.

The Aquarium Should have Live Plants

Living plants, as opposed to artificial ones made of plastic, usually accelerate the nitrogen cycle, especially if added from an established tank. In addition to being able to transport beneficial bacteria like the compounds mentioned above, plants are also capable of drawing ammonia from water for use in a biological process known as protein synthesis. Ammonia is typically absorbed in a higher rate by fast-growing plant species (such as Hygrophila and Vallisneria, for example). In general, floating plants are also effective.

Consider the Possibility of Cross-Contamination

It’s possible to unintentionally transfer other species while transferring substrate or filter media from one tank to another to introduce helpful bacteria. This method can spread various parasites, invertebrates, and microbes, so be mindful of the possibilities beforehand and avoid moving material from a tank infested with dangerous organisms. This method can spread pests like snails, harmful algae, and parasites like ich and velvet.

Freshwater Tanks should be Seasoned with a bit of Salt

When toxin levels are highest at the beginning of the cycling process, adding a modest salt to your freshwater tank can help your fish stay healthy. The nitrite intermediary component in the nitrate cycle is less hazardous as a result, which helps achieve this. A maximum of 0.4 ounces per gallon of water should be used, as any more can be highly stressful for freshwater fish. Use only certified aquarium salt; table salt hasn’t been designed for aquarium use and could harm your fish.

The Bottom Line on How to Cycle a Fish Tank with Fish?

You’ll be anxious to stock your brand-new fish tank with fish as soon as you purchase it. However, the fish in your aquarium will value the time and effort you invested in this crucial initial stage. Cycling a fish tank is a time-consuming process and might take time, much like in nature.

However, a mature and healthy fish tank is well worth the wait. You may watch a natural process occur in your home when you cycle your tank. In our aquatic environment, this process takes place on a global scale. You will soon finish your first cycle with a bit of perseverance and dedication.